Feeding time at Thakurdwara, near Bardia NP, Nepal

One evening I walked along the road leading from the lodge. Several people called out welcomes,and I enjoyed watching some of the daily tasks of life in and around Thakurdwara.

[I'm in Almora, Uttarakhand, India, now. Tomorrow I'll probably head for Naini Tal and do a day visit to nearby Sattal for the birdlife. Then it's on again, to Kausani and deeper into Uttarakhand, eventually to Josimath, then down to Rudraprayag and back to Delhi via Rishikesh. That's the vague plan, but who knows what will happen?]

All content © 2016 Pete McGregor

Dust at Thakurdwara

It may look pretty, but that haze is dust. This was a quick photograph snapped from the back of a jeep bouncing along the rough road to Thakurdwara, the village on the outskirts of Bardia National Park in Nepal.

Tomorrow I leave Mahendranagar and return to India.

[If you haven't already seen it, there's a new post on Pohanginapete]

All content © 2016 Pete McGregor

Rickshaw driver, Nepalgunj

He looks young, but he drove his rickshaw like a pro. I was only an hour or two in Nepalgunj after getting off the flight from Kathmandu, but I liked it.

Finding time to post photographs isn't easy when travelling, and I'm aware I still need to post on the main blog. I do have an Instagram account, though, and posting there's more efficient.

All content © 2016 Pete McGregor

The flight from Kazakhstan to Nepal

In September I flew from Kazakhstan to Kathmandu. The views during the flight were breathtaking.

[This is a larger version of one of the photographs on the new Pohanginapete post Three fine things.]

All content © 2015 Pete McGregor

Ponies on the Annapurna trail

A typical scene along the trail to Annapurna Base Camp. Sadly, a jeep track has been bulldozed all the way to Landruk, the first day's destination, and although it's often impassable because of slips, the feeling of achievement of the first day's walk is now tempered by the knowledge that sometimes it's possible to drive all the way. How much further will the track be pushed? If ever Joni Mitchell's lyrics about paving paradise and putting up a parking lot were apt, they are here.

But ponies and porters are still essential for supplying the guest houses along the route, and I always enjoyed encountering these pony trains.

[If you haven't realised already, I only got as far as Landruk. You can read why, here.

Update: Part 2 of the account of the illness is now up on Pohanginapete.]

All content © 2014 Pete McGregor

Heading for Annapurna Base Camp

Well, I was intending to get into the Annapurna Sanctuary. Illness put paid to that, though, and I pulled the plug on the trek before getting too far in, where I'd have been in serious trouble. I managed to walk out without being carried and without having my pack carried, either.

More about the aftermath later on the other blog, but no need for alarm.

Update: The first part of the account of the illness is now up on Pohanginapete.

All content © 2014 Pete McGregor

Indian rhinoceros, Chitwan National Park [3]

The rhinoceros waited until we were perched on the fallen tree and the boatman had swung the canoe back out into the river. Then it came trotting down the track and I grabbed a couple of photos. For a first encounter with these wonderful animals, I couldn't have wished for better.




[22 March 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 400, 1/1000 at f5.6] 

All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

Indian rhinoceros, Chitwan National Park [2]

As the boatman guided the canoe to shore so we could disembark and begin walking back, we looked up to the top of the bank. We saw this looking back at us, waiting to come down the steep track to cross the river.

I had my eye on the fallen tree and had worked out what I'd do if the rhinoceros began moving. It watched as the guide and I walked up the big trunk to a safe position and the boatman had taken the canoe out into the current.

Then it moved.


[22 March 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 400, 1/800 at f5.6] 

All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

Indian rhinoceros, Chitwan National Park

Having turned around partway across the Rapti river when the guides in the canoe-load of tourists began shouting and waving, the rhinoceros trotted back to the bank. We'd climbed onto a fallen tree so were at no risk; instead, I found the proximity to this enormous, seemingly ancient monster enthralling.

It trotted back up the steep path onto the terrace overlooking the river and moved out of sight. We never saw it again but I'll always remember it.


[22 March 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 400, 1/640 at f5.6] 

All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

Prayer flag & Annapurna South

At Tadapani on the Annapurna trail, the cloud broke in the late evening and Annapurna South began to appear.
[15 March 2007; Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 47 mm, ISO 200, 1/250 at f16]


All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Horse at Tadapani, Nepal

At Tadapani on the Annapurna trail, two small horses (I'm not sure whether it's acceptable to call them ponies — it's certainly not in Mongolia) wandered near the village. 
 
[15 March 2007; Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 105 mm, ISO 100, 1/160 at f16]
All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Snow crow, Himalaya

At the Himalaya hotel a snowstorm hit the night before we were to enter the Annapurna Sanctuary; travel onwards would have been suicidal. We waited until all the other guests had left, then followed them back down the valley. The crows just sat it out.

[13 March 2007; Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 105 mm, ISO 200, 1/25 at f8. This is actually a colour photo, not converted to Black-and-White.]

All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Rododendron forest, Tadapani, Nepal

March 2007, at Tadapani on the Annapurna Sanctuary trail, looking down towards the lowlands. Sometimes the view from the Himalaya can be as beautiful as the view towards the Himalaya.

All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

The view from Poon Hill, Nepal

All the trekkers do it, but it's worth it. Up before dawn, then the brisk climb to the summit and the waiting in the bitter cold for the sunrise. The distinctive mountain on the right is Machapuchare (many variations of the spelling exist).
All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

Downvalley from Chomrong, Nepal

On the Annapurna Sanctuary Trail. It's a steep climb up from that river.

All content © 2008 Pete McGregor

Clearing storm, Annapurna South

March 2007, at Tadapani on the Annapurna trail. The cloud begins to break towards evening, revealing glimpses of Annapurna South, like vignettes from the past. One might imagine the ghosts of long-perished climbers wandering restlessly up there, calling to their families, to their friends, to those who loved them. Do not forget us, they say.
All content © 2008 Pete McGregor

Elephant in chains

At Sauraha, the village adjoining Chitwan National Park in Nepal. This was a working elephant at a stable on the outskirts of the village.


All content © 2008 Pete McGregor