Dawn on the coast of Ghana

A day short of six years and one month ago I photographed the sea at dawn on the coast of Ghana. I loved the early mornings, when only one or two people had already risen and the tremendous humidity hadn't yet become almost unbearable, when the big sand crabs hadn't been frightened back down their burrows by human feet, when the sea fog hadn't yet been vaporised and anything might have materialised from the mist. The light and the colours seemed suffused with a softness utterly at odds with the brutal tropical heat that dominated the day.


[19 May 2007, Canon 20D, 10–22 mm f4 L at 10 mm, ISO 200, 1/50s at f11]

All content © 2013 Pete McGregor

Dawn in the jungle [2]

As the sun rose, the dense mist began to dissolve over Kakum National Park in Ghana. Monkeys crashed about in the foliage below the ropeway where Toni, Ana and I peered out over and through the canopy, and a hornbill flew past, silhouetted. One doesn't forget moments like these.


[22 April 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 45 mm, ISO 400, 1/25 at f8]

All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

African storm rolling in

Almost every day a thunderstorm broke on the coast of Ghana. Welcome, albeit partial and temporary, relief from the tremendous, debilitating humidity.

[7 April 2007, Canon 20D, 10–22 mm F4 at 16 mm, ISO 400, 1/30s at f10]

All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

Agama lizard on the coast of Ghana

On the coast of Ghana, males fought, presumably over females and territory. Fortunately, they were agama lizards.

Perhaps the most notable aspect of these fights was the way the combatants would change colour. In particular, as battle approached, the head took on this striking orange-red colour.

The other fights I saw (three in the three-and-a-half weeks I was there) appeared to be over traffic incidents. Fortunately, I wasn't involved.



[13 April 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 200, 1/500 at f4]


All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Male slave dungeon, Elmina Castle

Ghosts haunt Elmina castle, on the coast of Ghana. Toni, Ana and I sat on steps in the shade after the guided tour and wondered how the castle would affect us if we were able to return after closing time, when the tourists had gone; when the boundary between the past and present blurred; when the only other inhabitants were birds, echoes and memories; the spirits of those who died here and those who left in chains and never returned.

The horror, the horror.

[22 April 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 58 mm, ISO 100, 1/80s at f11] 

All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Toad, Kakum National Park

On the way out of Kakum NP after dawn on the ropeway, I glanced down. At my feet, I saw something slightly out of place; not just another leaf. I looked closer. This is what I saw.

[22 April 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 105 mm, ISO 400, 1/20s at f5.6] 

All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

So much depends on... [wheelbarrows]

At Elmina Castle in April 2007, where renovation still continued, these two wheelbarrows stood parked in the blinding sunlight. I couldn't help but remember William Carlos Williams' famous poem, and wondered what  these, in light of the castle's terrible history, would have prompted him to write. But perhaps no words can adequately express that horror.


[22 April 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 99 mm, ISO 200, 1/250 at f13]

All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Dawn in the jungle, Ghana

Toni, Ana and I negotiated an early start on the treetops walk in Kakum National Park, Ghana. We watched monkeys bounding through the canopy below us, saw hornbills flying like things weird and prehistoric, and felt the sun rise over the steaming forest. I braced myself apprehensively against the trunk of the tree and hoped the two second exposure would be short enough to avoid being attacked by ants.

[22 April 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 24 mm, ISO 400, 2s at f13] 



All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Pirogue on the coast of Ghana

At the small village at the mouth of the river, pirogues lay hauled out on the banks. They didn't look too stable, but I trusted the skills of our guides.

[8 April 2007; Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 32 mm, ISO 400, 1/50 at f8] 



All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Dawn on the coast of Ghana

Thunderstorms every day; heat; humidity; the sound of surf. The beach pocked with burrows — the homes of hand-sized crabs — and rumpled by the feet of still-sleeping humans.


[8 April 2007; Canon 20D, 10–22 mm f4 at 10 mm, ISO 400, 1/100 at f8]



All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Agama lizard and laundry; Accra, Ghana

 

These delightful lizards were common in Ghana. The bright colours on this individual hanging out on a wall at the hostel in Accra indicate he's a male.

All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

International Vulture Awareness Day

Today, 5 September 2009, is International Vulture Awareness Day. If you're not aware of the reasons vultures are vital, or not aware of the threats to their survival, check out the site or go to BirdLife International's page about the importance of vultures. Throughout much of Asia, vulture populations have declined catastrophically, largely because of their susceptibility to veterinary use of the drug diclofenac; now, diclofenac residues in livestock carcasses are beginning to decimate vultures in parts of Africa.

This a hooded vulture, Necrosyrtes monachus, next to the carapace of a green turtle on the coast of Ghana in April 2007. The photo first appeared on Pohanginapete in a tongue-in-cheek (the pun is unavoidable) post about the joys of eating offal.

Updates:
1. Charlie, at 10,000 Birds, has posted a wonderfully informative article about what's happening to vultures. Fortunately, as he concludes, it's "not all doom and gloom". Highly recommended.
2. If you think vultures are ugly, you might change your mind after seeing Gwendolen's photo of a Rüppell's griffon vulture.
3. As I've noted above (and Charlie elaborates on), much of the problem arises from veterinary use of diclofenac. Meloxicam appears to be a vulture-safe alternative to diclofenac; however, it's considerably more expensive. Moreover, in Africa vultures are also threatened by off-label use of the extremely toxic pesticide furadan, as well as (you guessed it) habitat destruction.
4. To end the updates on a much lighter note: Corey, also at 10,000 Birds, has collated a handful of wonderful quotations about vultures.

All content (other than the IVAD logo in this post) © 2009 Pete McGregor

Elmina — the town

A photo from within the castle. A record shot, but from what I saw during my three and a half weeks there, this is how many (not all but perhaps most) of the people live.
All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

Elmina castle, Ghana

Elmina castle in Ghana has an horrific history, similar to the nearby Cape Coast castle which Barack Obama and his family visited recently. His speech is brief, but makes points we all would do well to reflect on and remember.
All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

Dawn on the coast of Ghana

No one else was up. The only things moving were a few fast-flying birds, big sand crabs, clouds and the sea. Sunlight touched the beach; heat and humidity began to build.

All content © 2009 Pete McGregor