Dawn, Lake Malawi

At dawn on the shores of Lake Malawi in 2007, I looked out towards Mozambique, somewhere out of sight on the far side of the lake. A few fishermen tried their luck far out on the water in their tiny dugout canoes; a pair of hammerkops preened at the water's edge; a big, well fed dog padded along the sand. I'd have been happy to stay there indefinitely.


[20 May 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 73 mm, ISO 400, 1/20s at f16]

All content © 2012 Pete McGregor

White-necked raven, Nyika Plateau

A long way from anywhere I stopped the ute and got out to wander around in the wind and sun. A small group of roan antelope grazed in the distance and a storm moved across the horizon where hills receded into the blue-grey haze. A raven watched me carefully as it fed. One can't be too careful around here.


[24 May 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 200, 1/800 at f7.1] 

All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

Pel's fishing owl

For those of you who don't know or aren't interested in owls, this might seem a pretty ordinary photo. But a sighting of Pel's fishing owl is a highlight for most bird-watchers, and although I wasn't in Malawi primarily for the birds, this sighting at Chinguni Hills, Liwonde National Park, certainly delighted me.

[31 May 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 200, 1/400 at f5.6]

All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

Snake and frog

At Liwonde National Park in southern Malawi we heard something screaming. When we traced it we found this. Neither animal seemed prepared to give in, and I never learned the outcome. How the snake (I was told it was a variegated bush snake) would manage to swallow the frog, I have no idea, but if it did manage it, it's probably still digesting it, almost four years later (just kidding, but you'll get the idea).

Later I heard another frog screaming nearby. Must have been a bad day for frogs.



[1 June 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L , ISO 400, 1/100 at f5.0] 

All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

Roan antelope

On the Nyika Plateau one evening I stopped near a small group of roan antelope (Hippotragus equinus). The low sun lit the big animals from the wrong side but I photographed anyway. I'm glad I did.


[23 May 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 200, 1/1000s at f5.6] 


All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

Be good to each other (Hamerkops preening)

To me, the " Christmas controversy" seems analogous to arguing over the identity of the singing bird, with the beauty of the song drowned out by the strident voices. But rather than merely tolerating others' beliefs, how about trying to understand them. The difference is substantial.

Merry Christmas/Yule/Holidays/Whatever-you-like-to-call-it. Thank you for visiting, and a special thanks to those of you who comment regularly and so generously. See you in the New Year
:^)


[25 May 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 200, 1/400 at f6.3]

All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Boatman, Shire river, Malawi

The crew of our boat on the Shire comprised just the skipper and this man, whose role seemed little more than to moor the boat and keep watch.


[1 June 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 105 mm, ISO 200, 1/80s at f6.3]


All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Shire River, Malawi

Hippos yawned and snorted near the banks, jacanas stepped precisely over water hyacinth, an open-billed stork flew past carrying something unidentifiable. Well within the park boundary, we passed a man in ragged clothing; he stood baiting a line and looking nervous in a canoe that was little more than a crudely shaped and hollowed log. The skipper called out to him as we passed; he looked back at us but didn't reply. He wasn't the only one fishing.

[1 June 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 58 mm, ISO 200, 1/40s at f11] 

 
All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

The Nyika Plateau at dawn

At dawn, mist pooled in the shallow gullies, a group of eland grazed on a far hillside, bushbuck fed near the campsite. A white-necked raven explored nearby, no doubt hoping for scraps. Of all the places I'd travelled in Africa, this felt the most remote, the quietest, the most peaceful. Perhaps it was an illusion.

[21 May 2007, Canon 20D, 24–105 mm f4 L at 105 mm, ISO 200, 1/13s at f8] 


All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Hamerkop, Lake Malawi

On the shore of Lake Malawi, a pair of hamerkops (Scopus umbretta) preened each other, rested, or padded about at the lapping water's edge. Strange birds, with a wealth of folklore and unresolved scientific questions.

[25 May 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 200, 1/200 at f6.3]

All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Patricia Nkhoma memorial, Nkhotakota Game Reserve

From my journal, Sunday 27 May 2007:
"I drive to Nkhotakota and through the Game Reserve, stopping at the Patricia Nkhoma memorial. The only sound is the wind the long grass. Somewhere between the reserve and Lilongwe, a white rabbit scampers at the side of the road. Where am I, and when? Who, or what, is writing the strange story?"

[27 May 2007; Canon 20D, 24–105mm f4 L at 24 mm, ISO 200, 1/200 at f11]

All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Bushbuck, Nyika Plateau, Malawi

Bushbuck (Tragelaphus scriptus) were common around Chelinda Camp. At dawn they grazed near my tent and seemed relatively accepting of my quiet movements. This one, however, I photographed from the open window of the ute.

[23 May 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 400, 1/100 at f4]


All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Boehm's bee eater, Liwonde NP, Malawi

At Chinguni Hills In Liwonde National Park, Jo, Parry and I took a walk on foot with a guide early one morning. These brilliantly coloured little birds (Merops boehmi) were one of the highlights for me.


[31 May 2007, Canon 20D, 300 mm f4 L IS, ISO 200, 1/400 at f5.6]



All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Nyika Plateau, Malawi

On the Nyika Plateau in northern Malawi I finally felt as if I'd found somewhere remote. (After being closed for two years, the plateau re-opened for visitors late last year.)
[21 May 2007; Canon 20D, EF 24–105 f4 L at 105 mm, ISO 200, f16, 1/80s]
All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

Aloe flower, Nyika Plateau, Malawi

Aloe spp. flowering on a rock outcrop among grasslands on the Nyika Plateau, northern Malawi.
All content © 2010 Pete McGregor

The Nyika Plateau, northern Malawi

The Nyika Plateau: grasslands rolling on forever, small areas of scrub and forest, rock outcrops. Thunderstorms and wild light. Roan antelope, zebra, bushbuck, reedbuck, eland, many wonderful birds. The possibility of  hyaenas, wattled crane, Denham’s bustard, leopard.
All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

Zebra, Nyika Plateau, Malawi

On the Nyika Plateau in northern Malawi, Crawshay's zebra (Equus guagga crawshayi, a subspecies of the plains zebra) were common. Although a lone zebra in grassland like this appears conspicuous, a herd can be confusing to look at, particularly when they're running, and I imagine they'd be hard to spot in the dappled light of the small patches of forest scattered around the Plateau.

[Updated 3 November 2009 to add details of identification]

All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

Bushbuck, Nyika Plateau, Malawi

At my campsite on the Nyika Plateau in northern Malawi, bushbuck (Tragelaphus scriptus) visited each morning to graze the introduced grasses and clovers; white-necked ravens fossicked around the shelter; eland, roan antelope and zebra wandered on the distant rolling hills. Sometimes it all seems as if I dreamed it.
All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

Blue waxbill; Lilongwe, Malawi

Blue waxbills (Uraeginthus angolensis) were common around Lilongwe, Malawi's capital. Given their abundance, I suppose they eventually become one of the unnoticed species: invisible to most people. But, for me in 2007, most of the birds — and Malawi has a huge diversity — were new and fascinating.
All content © 2009 Pete McGregor

Approaching thunderstorm, Nyika Plateau

Watching this storm approach across the Nyika Plateau, I felt grateful I had a rented car for shelter and transport.

All content © 2009 Pete McGregor