
We were among the last to leave Badrinath after the day's ceremonies. I waited with him and several others, hoping to find a place in a jeep back to Joshimath after all the buses had left. I ended up enduring a ride of several hours crushed into the back of a jeep with a collection of other travellers and enormous, blackened cooking pots. I couldn't sit, couldn't stand, couldn't even kneel properly, but somehow survived by crouching in a corner and attempting to let my thoughts drift elsewhere. It must have worked. But meeting people like this was ample recompense for the hardship.
The following day, Badrinath would have been deserted; everyone gone for the winter, the god from the temple transferred to Joshimath. Just the choughs — those beautiful alpine crows — and a few other birds, the wind and the silence left.
All content © 2009 Pete McGregor