A week ago I walked up the No. 1 Line track and across to Kiritaki hut on the Hawkes Bay side of the Ruahine Range. The following day I walked back the way I'd come, in better weather that allowed more of a view north along the range. Much of the snow had turned to ice, and, although it didn't extend far down the mountainsides, most of the track wound through the icy zone. Not until I began the descent towards the main No. 1 Line track did I leave the snow and ice behind. When I did, it was with a slight sense of sadness.