tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1910287372658937592012-02-01T17:52:32.135+13:00Photos by Pete McGregor. Copyright of all content belongs solely to Pete.pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.comBlogger7751100tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-70902402415790393972012-01-30T17:05:00.001+13:002012-01-30T17:05:31.493+13:00

Just back from an extended weekend in Wellington, so here's a placeholder. Plums galore, but they're still ripening, and even when fully ripe they're not the best. The birds beg to differ, though. [2 January 2012, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 300 mm, ISO 200, 1/400 at f5.6] All content © 2012 Pete McGregor

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Not today, though. :^) [24 January 2012, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 246 mm, ISO 400, 1/15 at f5.6] All content © 2012 Pete McGregor

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The Oroua a couple of weeks back ran high and swift; the whio were nowhere to be seen. They can handle water like this with ease, though, so I guess they simply moved somewhere less affected by the flooding — perhaps a short way up a side creek, where the rocks from which they gleaned caddises and other invertebrates might have emerged faster from the floodwaters. By now, the pair we'd seen

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On Monday, Jesse and I walked to mid Pohangina hut, hoping we'd see whio. We did — we watched a pair on the evening river, saw them first as they worked their way upstream, feeding, sometimes climbing out of the water onto a rock to preen a little before resuming their foraging. Later in the evening the female flew from downriver to alight on the pool in front of the hut. She swam around,

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As the dawn grew brighter we passed by mountains reminiscent of the Torres del Paine. I wanted to stop and explore, and wondered who might have been lucky enough to have done that. The possibilities seemed endless. [6 December 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 29 mm, ISO 100, 1/50 at f11] All content © 2012 Pete McGregor

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The berths on the Evangelista were only slightly larger than coffins, yet I slept wonderfully every night. Perhaps that was why I was also up early each day, sometimes before sunrise, so I got to see the first light, then the first sunlight striking the mountains, the islands. For the first day and a half from Puerto Natales we sailed through an almost incomprehensibly complex landscape of

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Late in the evening we boarded the Evangelista to sleep there for the night so we could leave at dawn the next day. The wild Patagonian sky didn't augur well for a friend's trek in the Torres del Paine National Park — in New Zealand, clouds like these mark a nor'wester and warn one to stay out of the mountains. But here the sky often looks like this and one learns not to pay too much

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Yesterday I returned to Iron Gate hut with a good friend and his three boys. I'd hoped to show them whio, but the flood of the previous day had receded only slightly and the pair of whio I'd seen there shortly before New Year were nowhere to be seen. I assume they sought shelter elsewhere, perhaps up one of the side creeks. This shows a typical section of the river where we searched late in

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A small footbridge near the start of the final, steep section of the trail to Laguna de los Tres. On our return from the laguna, I'd skipped quickly down the trail, enjoying the feel of moving lightly over the boulders. I stopped to photograph this lovely little footbridge, then waited for Sophie and Janine at the shelter a minute or two further down the trail. Janine smiled at me. "Pete the

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In Argentina's Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, Australians Sophie and Janine and I walked from El Chalten to Laguna de los Tres on a wild, grim day. No one stayed long at the top, where the bitter cold turned the rain to ice and the wind drove it near horizontally. Fitz Roy reared into the cloud beyond the laguna, but  we could see almost nothing of this mountain, which in clear weather

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The first two days on the ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt took us through spectacular landscapes, and even the time on the Golfo de Penas, where seasickness can quickly afflict those unwise enough not to have taken dramamine, proved a delight because of the birds — albatrosses, petrels, shearwaters — following the ship.Not much to see on the final day, although those of us on deck

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-87822067058467451422012-01-02T17:42:00.000+13:002012-01-02T17:42:10.735+13:00

At Ushuaia I found myself constantly looking along the Beagle Channel. Somewhere out there, Tierra del Fuego ends and Cape Horn faces the Drake Passage. Beyond that, Antarctica. What is that draws us so strongly to these places; compels us to keep moving onwards? [26 November 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 100 mm, ISO 200, 1/640 at f11] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

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On New Year's Eve this was the kind of news I didn't want. I loved the few days I had trekking in the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine and still think of that spectacular landscape. But now the park is burning — already about 8500 hectares has been consumed. I suppose I could say I was lucky yet again to have enjoyed the park before this disaster, but in these circumstances I simply can't

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-74783235045999839872011-12-29T16:42:00.000+13:002011-12-29T16:42:05.395+13:00

Yesterday morning in the Oroua river at Iron Gate hut. A friend had wanted for some time to do a tramp in the Ruahine and we finally managed it, walking in on Tuesday afternoon. I'd expected the hut to be full so had packed the tent, but to our delight we found no one else there — we had the place to ourselves the whole time. In the evening we explored the river; I'd hoped we might see or at

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-34551668700527906412011-12-26T20:56:00.000+13:002011-12-26T20:56:50.142+13:00

A 4:30 a.m. start followed by a steep climb up the flanks of the volcano wasn't easy, but we arrived on time as the first sunlight touched the summit. We watched while the warm light crept down the mountain and thought ourselves lucky to have a guide like José, who knew how to persuade us to rise before dawn, knew how to time our arrival perfectly, and knew we'd appreciate the effort. That's

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Still a few hours from the end of the sea journey and the sun went down, the light began to fade, everything softened. The beat of the engines continued unabated. Everyone came on deck, unable to resist the last of the light. Merry Christmas everyone. Thanks for calling in, even if you seldom or never leave a comment (but special thanks to those who do, and, in doing so, encourage me to keep

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-59057672620298273572011-12-21T16:44:00.000+13:002011-12-21T16:44:20.408+13:00

Although the ferry berthed at about midnight, we stayed on board, had breakfast the next day, then disembarked. I wandered the deck at dawn, almost alone, watching the light grow, the colours change, a seal swimming. All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-4754562492622382102011-12-14T12:00:00.000+13:002011-12-14T12:00:00.584+13:00

As the ferry returned to its course north, the glacier began to slip behind a ridge. Weak sunlight touched the ice as if to say remember this moment. Then the glacier vanished and the grey rain set in. [6 December 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 300 mm, ISO 100, 1/1250 at f11]     All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

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During the journey through the fjords, the Evangelista detoured to take us close to the Brujo glacier. Rain threatened, and at times delivered on the threat; droplets driven by the wind spattered the lens, eventually forcing me to abandon the 14–45 and replace it with the 100–300. My fingers started to numb, my nose ran, but nothing could quell the compulsion to make the most of the short

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-20709596189885203422011-12-13T02:00:00.000+13:002011-12-13T02:00:00.553+13:00

As the Brujo Glacier passed out of sight, the spectacular views continued. [6 December 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 269 mm, ISO 100, 1/30 at f16]   All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

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Sometimes during the first two days of sailing from Puerto Natales, we were treated to sights like this. [6 December 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 100 mm, ISO 100, 1/1600 at f11] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

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Dusk on the last day of the journey from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, in southern Chile. We reached Puerto Montt shortly before midnight and disembarked yesterday morning; I caught a bus to Puerto Varas and this afternoon travel to Pucón. I fly from Santiago to Auckland late on the 15th. Time is relative to the amount left. [8 December 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 45 mm, ISO

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-13915770467410799352011-12-08T03:04:00.000+13:002011-12-08T03:04:00.173+13:00

Walking along the waterfront at Ushuaia, I noticed several gulls foraging in the stinking black ooze at the water's edge. They looked different from the gulls I already knew — what's usually white was grey, and the bills seemed bulkier and redder. I checked the book. Dolphin gulls are apparently uncommon, although in Ushuaia they were easy to find. Over several days I tried to photograph them

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-24776885743719253962011-12-07T02:53:00.000+13:002011-12-07T02:53:00.071+13:00

I could spend hours, days, maybe more, on the shore in front of Puerto Natales. Having written that, I wonder why the sea is always in front of a coastal town, never behind it? How widespread is the compulsion to look out at the sea in preference to back towards the land? Thoughts appreciated (but I won't be able to reply until I'm on land again in a few days). [4 December 2011,

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-6785218042215656382011-12-06T02:43:00.001+13:002011-12-06T02:53:24.254+13:00

Another view of the coast directly in front of the main part of Pto. Natales. Just a few steps along from the site of the previous photo. I board the ferry tonight, bound for Puerto Montt, so for the next several days I'll have no Internet access. I'll schedule some photos for posting, but won't be able to reply to comments. When I disembark, I'll have less than a week left in South America

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-90503867406112006592011-12-05T04:45:00.001+13:002011-12-05T04:57:34.047+13:00

A beautiful day — warm, Spring-like, sunny — turned into a mild, partly overcast evening. I walked along the waterfront in the late afternoon, enjoying the birds, photographing, relaxing under the sightless gaze of the extinct giant ground sloth which Puerto Natales seems to have adopted as its emblem. [3 December 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 14 mm, ISO 100, 1/40 at f16] All

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-61100859658117649062011-12-03T21:48:00.000+13:002011-12-03T21:48:00.365+13:00

Lapwings yell from a small, rocky mudbank a little way from shore; two black-necked swans cruise in the distance; a Magellanic oystercatcher probes among the stones; a few crested ducks float quietly. A cool but pleasant breeze wrinkles the water shortly before brief, light drizzle. Voices in the distance; the continuous, deep hum of a boat engine; gently lapping water; the sulphurous smell

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-26422411028575424262011-12-02T02:00:00.000+13:002011-12-02T02:00:15.431+13:00

I like Puerto Natales. To me, it has a charm like that of a small coastal fishing town — once-bright colours weather-faded to lovely pastels, silvery-grey worn wooden fences no longer neatly upright, plenty of the wonderful colours of rust; in short, Puerto Natales seems scruffy but in that functional, full-of-life way. Yes, tourism now dominates, but the town's far from being ruined by it.

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-62697130287155735262011-12-01T02:00:00.000+13:002011-12-01T02:00:10.627+13:00

The first place we visited in Tierra del Fuego National Park was the small waterfall and rapids on the Río Pipo, about ten minutes' stroll from the car park. As usual, I could have stayed there indefinitely photographing the flow of water. [28 November 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 127 mm, ISO 100, 1/15 at f16]   All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-17199554434801300222011-11-30T00:11:00.001+13:002011-11-30T00:47:16.228+13:00

Yesterday I visited Tierra del Fuego National Park with a couple of new friends. We walked several trails, including a lovely 8 km walk along the coast through southern beech forest and across small, beautiful coves with pale shingle beaches, rocky headlands and short spongy grass cropped by Upland and Ashy-headed geese. At roughly the two-thirds mark, we stopped for a snack and a rest.

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-44881027922869641872011-11-29T04:00:00.000+13:002011-11-29T04:00:12.282+13:00

Sights like this were worth the early rise, but so were the torrent ducks. A morning I'll always remember. [21 November 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 45 mm, ISO 200, 1/25 at f16]   All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-35410657063211422192011-11-28T01:51:00.001+13:002011-11-28T02:02:07.230+13:00

Mountains loom over Ushuaia, pushing the town against the waters of the Beagle Channel. Some look as if they could be climbed on an easy stroll, others look like serious challenges, but the weather can make all excursions difficult. [25 November 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 300 mm, ISO 200, 1/250 at f5.6] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-55071303199462261762011-11-27T09:11:00.001+13:002011-11-27T09:32:09.860+13:00

Early morning in the Beagle Channel, from Ushuaia. Not far to go to Antarctica, but unfortunately that's out of the question for me. Soon I start travelling north, and I doubt I'll ever again return this far south in this lifetime. A strange feeling. [26 November 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 100 mm, ISO 200, 1/640 at f11] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-67866792361756381442011-11-26T08:35:00.001+13:002011-11-26T10:03:10.248+13:00

On our way to the mirador beyond Campamento Britanico, we stopped to admire the light on Paine Grande's glaciers. For a few seconds, sunlight grazed the top of the glacier near Cumbre Norte (the north summit), and I managed a couple of quick photographs. Then the light vanished. I'm now in Ushuaia, the furthest south I've ever been. In a few days I begin the long journey north again. [

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Shortly before 5 a.m. I got up and walked the short distance to the bridge at Campamento Italiano. The early light had already begun to colour Paine Grande, and over the next 15–20 minutes the mountain and clouds put on a gorgeous display. I didn't realise when I photographed this that a male torrent duck was standing on a boulder in midstream (he's just discernible if you look closely) but

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-81419479327277045202011-11-24T03:38:00.001+13:002011-11-24T03:49:28.179+13:00

In the evening I climbed through light, blowing snow to the mirador (viewpoint) looking over the small lake and towards the Torres del Paine. Only three other people shared the evening, but although the cloud never cleared completely and the cold never relented, the reward in terms of the light more than compensated. [19 November 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 45 mm, ISO 200, 1/80

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-3383306983451459062011-11-23T04:08:00.001+13:002011-11-23T04:34:00.521+13:00

My luck still seems to be holding. On the last morning of my time in PN Torres del Paine I rose before dawn and watched the spectacular colours and light on the mountains around campamento Italiano. The display had just passed its peak and had begun to fade, so I shut the camera down and began to think about breakfast. I switched the camera on again quickly, though, when I saw a male torrent

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-77249039569850275182011-11-19T12:05:00.000+13:002011-11-19T12:05:00.707+13:00

At Puerto Natales in the South of Chile, waterfront signs identifying some of the common birds recognise that many people are interested in more than just the region's spectacular landscapes (Puerto Natales is the gateway to the Torres del Paine). Yesterday I saw a group of elderly visitors armed with substantial binoculars and an enormous, tripod-mounted spotting scope taking obvious delight

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-587883966383940242011-11-17T09:51:00.000+13:002011-11-17T09:51:00.661+13:00

This is the female torrent duck in the Rio Fitz Roy close to El Chalten. Read about the encounter and see the male at the previous post. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to photograph the two chicks — fluffy (but clearly water-resistant) black-and-white balls bobbing in the turbulent shallows. [11 November 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 300 mm, ISO 200, 1/1250 at f8. Heavily cropped.]

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One of the birds I particularly wanted to see in South America is the Torrent duck (Merganetta armata), a strikingly-coloured bird that in habits and taxonomy resembles Aotearoa's whio. At the Laguna Torre campsite in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, I'd investigated the upper section of the river but had seen no ducks. After returning to El Chalten I enquired at the park headquarters. Where, I

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-65058612545166785222011-11-13T23:28:00.001+13:002011-11-13T23:40:17.848+13:00

At De Agostini campsite I set up my tarptent near the river and late in the evening walked up the riverbed towards Laguna Torre, hoping to see torrent ducks. I didn't, but was rewarded instead with striking and slightly different views of Cerro Torre, while the river itself, milky with glacial flour compelled me to photograph. [10 November 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 214 mm,

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-36893042791887351472011-11-12T23:32:00.001+13:002011-11-13T00:26:28.488+13:00

At Laguna Torre I shared the camping ground among the southern beeches with about a dozen other tents. By 9 p.m. I'd already wriggled into my sleeping bag and had finished scribbling a few quick notes, yet the evening hadn't darkened enough to make the headlamp necessary. I dropped off to sleep immediately, woke often during the night but still managed the better part of about eight hours. At

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As the bus approached El Chalten, no one seemed able to look away from the mountains ahead. I happened to have been allocated a seat right at the front of the bus and was able to photograph directly through the windshield (splattered insects and all). The dominant peak is Fitz Roy (sometimes spelled FitzRoy or Fitzroy), with Poincenet to the left. Cerro Torre stands out of the frame of this

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-64829942392041692272011-11-10T12:53:00.000+13:002011-11-10T12:53:38.950+13:00

One of the main reasons I came to South America was in the hope of seeing the greatest mountain in the world — to my mind, Cerro Torre. I came prepared to camp out for as long as I could in the hope of catching a glimpse of the mountain famously described by one of the greatest mountaineers ever, Reinhold Messner, as "a shriek turned to stone". Yesterday I arrived in El Calafate; this

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-51671366343567075432011-11-08T01:00:00.000+13:002011-11-08T01:00:06.865+13:00

On the second evening we stayed on the edge of the Salar in a quiet little village where, José told us, the young people had left to seek more advanced education. I walked through the empty lanes at dusk to the edge of town where ribbons of tattered plastic hung from a single strand of loosely strung barbed wire — the boundary of a roughly ploughed, dusty field. A breeze fluttered the plastic

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-28532974708569721322011-11-06T08:43:00.000+13:002011-11-06T08:43:00.232+13:00

Mangroves, despised by so many people, have a role along the world's coasts that can hardly be overestimated. I love them mostly because they provide homes for so many animals of such a diversity, and perhaps also because they're so resilient, so tough. Survivors that look after others. [17 September 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 23 mm, ISO 400, 1/400 at f16] All content ©

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-69442007988106478012011-11-05T07:57:00.000+13:002011-11-05T07:57:00.127+13:00

In southern Ecuador rain seemed integral to the environment. I'd intended visiting Cajas and/or Podocarpus National Parks, but the prospect of walking all day in the rain and seeing little other than the inside of the cloud put me off. The short message: if you're visiting southern Ecuador, allow plenty of time. This is a telephoto shot from my hostel in Vilcabamba. This seems so long ago

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-89888927719362291522011-11-04T08:54:00.000+13:002011-11-04T08:54:00.126+13:00

As the train left Oruro, the first hints of the salar appeared. On the other side of the train, the wetlands retained a layer of water that supported hundreds of birds, of which flamingoes were the most obvious, but on my side only occasional small ponds supported apparent life. [New post up on Pohanginapete: Leaving Huaraz] [22 October 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 40 mm, ISO

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-8627046441447048142011-11-03T02:26:00.000+13:002011-11-03T02:26:00.124+13:00

At roughly 4700 metres, the the highest point of our traverse of the altiplano (a.k.a. puna) between the Salar de Uyuni and Eduardo Avaroa Andean National Fauna Reserve on the third day of the tour felt like the roof of the world. For some, this might be one of the bleakest landscapes on earth; for all of us, it felt exhilarating. [25 October 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 14

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-31380770228460160392011-11-02T13:09:00.000+13:002011-11-03T00:12:31.677+13:00

A typical scene from Uyuni, which is geared up for running tours of the Salar (salt lake). Apparently, over 70 operators compete for the constant stream of tourists. We eventually settled on Quechua Connection, and with José as our guide, driver and cook, I can't imagine having a better tour. I was lucky, too, with my excellent companions from Italy and France. All content © 2011 Pete

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-16598950954160790372011-11-01T13:01:00.000+13:002011-11-04T08:07:05.717+13:00

Filippo, Davide and I took a bus from La Paz to Oruro, then the train to Uyuni — the only train journey of these travels. The landscape from the train captivated me completely, but over the next four or five days I almost ran out of words to describe the spectacular lands through which we travelled. All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-73653453041168844862011-10-31T12:50:00.000+13:002011-10-31T12:50:00.590+13:00

The enormous salt flats near Uyuni in Bolivia make up a landscape unlike any I've ever been in.I spent four wonderful days with Filippo and Davide (Italy), Jean-Baptiste and Eugenie and Vincent (France), and our guide/driver/cook José, who spoke excellent English and looked after us superbly. This is one of the reasons for the hiatus in posting recently, but I trust I'll make up for it over

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-23243178165379275852011-10-30T12:49:00.003+13:002011-10-30T12:49:40.643+13:00

My Italian friends, Davide and Filippo, and I hired a taxi in La Paz and visited several nearby places including the remarkable, savagely rain-eroded landscape around the Muela del Diablo. We saw no other tourists and only a couple of local people. We climbed as high as was safe on the Muela itself and were treated to fantastic (in several senses) views, including this, when the late sun

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-83123123448255612442011-10-21T11:43:00.000+13:002011-10-21T11:43:33.692+13:00

From the rooftop patio of our hostel, we could see the Cordillera Blanca in every kind of light. Here, morning rain filters the light around Churup. I loved Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca. You might have to put up with a few more photos from there. [8 October 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 300 mm, ISO 400, 1/500 at f8] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-63329275638779493572011-10-20T10:05:00.000+13:002011-10-20T10:05:00.724+13:00

From Copacabana the boat journey to the Isla del Sol takes roughly an hour and a half. I found the trip enjoyable and relaxing — something about the continuous roar of an outboard motor seems strangely meditative to me. Once again my journey south has been delayed by protests. The road out of Copacabana has been blockaded, apparently in protest at some judicial decision. Apparently, though,

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-68337805410394492252011-10-19T04:01:00.000+13:002011-10-19T04:01:00.714+13:00

The Uros Islands lie on Lake Titicaca, just offshore from Puno. Hundreds of tourists visit them each day — I was one. The people who live on these floating islands were welcoming and good-humoured and I found the islands, constructed of constantly replenished layers of reeds, fascinating. As we listened to the explanation of how the islands were constructed, I could see ours undulating just

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-53760579055986099052011-10-18T07:29:00.000+13:002011-10-18T07:29:00.456+13:00

Towards evening the bus crested the range and in the distance we saw for the first time the snows that give the Cordillera Blanca its name. [4 October 2011 [Ecuador], Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14-45 mm at 14 mm, ISO 400, 1/2000 at f8]   All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-74211876052178703692011-10-17T06:51:00.000+13:002011-10-17T06:51:00.201+13:00

In many places between Trujillo and Chimbote, not even cacti grew. If not for the blue sky (which grew bluer as the misty cloud cleared), we could have imagined ourselves on a lifeless planet. I'd never realised geology alone could be so beautiful. [I'll be crossing into Bolivia soon, and don't know whether I'll continue to have the wifi access that's allowed me to post so frequently.

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-89473867130655134262011-10-15T13:37:00.000+13:002011-10-15T13:37:00.242+13:00

The best view of a bluefooted booby in the Galápagos was on the Tintoreras, the small islets next to the wharf at Puerto Villamil on Isabela. No mistaking the identification here. I'm now in Arequipa in the south of Peru; next stop Puno and Lake Titicaca. The Galápagos seem so long ago now, but I'll never forget them.  [16 September 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 136 mm, ISO

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-42272925777755253692011-10-14T02:56:00.000+13:002011-10-14T02:56:00.292+13:00

A wooden bridge crosses a small stream at the start of the trail to Laguna 69. Fed by glacial meltwater, the stream rose noticeably during the course of the day. [7 October 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 18 mm, ISO 100, 1/15 at f16] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-8997117010885609842011-10-13T08:05:00.000+13:002011-10-13T08:05:00.581+13:00

Despite their size, frigate birds can jink and turn in an instant; if one decides it wants your fish, resistance is futile — you can't outfly it. This one at Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz was one of a good number looking for scraps from a fisherman cleaning his catch. [19 September 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 100 mm, ISO 400, 1/800 at f7.1] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-22603453772725040562011-10-12T00:30:00.000+13:002011-10-12T00:30:02.318+13:00

We climbed mostly under an overcast sky, on the face of an inactive part of a glacier. Occasionally the dense cloud parted, revealing parts of the surrounding mountains. [8 October 2011 [Ecuador], Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 100 mm, ISO 100, 1/800 at f11] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-5886643814896437872011-10-11T00:30:00.000+13:002011-10-12T01:40:49.360+13:00

From the patio outside my room in Huaraz, I've been able to enjoy these kinds of views. I'm not sure of the name of this mountain, but I never tire of seeing it in different light — here, just before nightfall. [Update: I've just published a new post on Pohanginapete] [Update 2: The mountain is Vallunaraju] [7 October 2011 [Ecuador], Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 45 mm, ISO 200, 1/200

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-12469182561068567712011-10-08T10:48:00.001+13:002011-10-10T04:22:14.244+13:00

A col (small, high pass) above Laguna 69 in the Cordillera Blanca (see the previous post). The weather already showed signs of deteriorating, but we were fortunate to see the place in spectacular conditions. All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-35993632595895496642011-10-08T10:41:00.000+13:002011-10-08T10:41:47.221+13:00

Yesterday some friends and I climbed up to Laguna 69 (don't ask about the name; I have no idea) at about 4700 m in Peru's Cordillera Blanca. To stand on the shore and see mountains like this rising above the glacier, which in turn sat above a great rock cliff falling sheer into the cerulean waters, made my heart sing. This is my kind of country.   [6 October 2011 [Ecuador], Panasonic

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-81016807390566490562011-10-06T23:47:00.000+13:002011-10-06T23:47:49.491+13:00

The desert between Trujillo and Chimbote, through the window of the taxi taking us to Chimbote for the connecting bus to Huaraz. Of all the deserts I've seen, this seemed most like that of imagination. Astonishingly beautiful. [No time for more — off to the Cordillera Blanca in a few minutes.]     All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-77789257371747916202011-10-05T04:10:00.000+13:002011-10-05T04:10:00.259+13:00

The massive structure of Kuelap sits at 3000 metres, surrounded by steep valleys. Although far less well known than Machu Picchu, the travellers I met who had visited both sites found Kuelap at least as impressive, with the advantage that what reconstruction has been carried out is easy to identify — and the guides point it out. What I did find difficult about Kuelap was photographing it to

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-3715143595821825982011-10-04T01:21:00.001+13:002011-10-04T01:22:01.830+13:00

Jumping back a few weeks — my room on Isabela, the largest island in the Galápagos archipelago (I love that word — "archipelago"). The room was actually partitioned, and I slept in the other area in a larger bed — with sheets. I wrote at the tiled bench in the kitchen area; I wrote in restaurants, I wrote at a little bar on the waterfront, I wrote wherever and whenever I could. Now I'm in

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-19558967471431413902011-10-03T01:43:00.001+13:002011-10-03T01:44:19.334+13:00

The sarcophagi at Karajía, near Chachapoyas in northern Peru, stand high on a cliff, inaccessible to all but birds. The whole mountainside used to contain these tombs, but earthquakes over the last thousand years have taken their toll. These reminders of Chacapoyan culture pre-date the Incas. An eerie place. The sarcophagi stand guard, strange and silent; the brittle bones of humans lie in

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-4572280135436285342011-10-01T09:39:00.000+13:002011-10-01T09:40:00.510+13:00

Eared doves ( Zenaida auriculata) were one of the first birds I identified in Ecuador. Ubiquitous in Quito, they're widespread elsewhere too, and only in Cuenca did I notice they'd largely been replaced by fat feral pigeons. This was one of the few reasonable photos I managed; an eared dove outside my room at the Tutamanda hostel in Quito. I'm in Peru now, at Chachapoyas. I left Vilcabamba

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-26929453017270894322011-09-30T08:00:00.000+13:002011-09-30T08:00:00.126+13:00

At the avifauna centre next to the Inca ruins in Cuenca — a place intended to foster 'respect for the avifauna' — birds of several species including several species of Amazon Parrots, a White-fronted Toucan, Great Cowbird, Black-chested Buzzard Eagles, Scarlet Macaws, and the bird that captured my imagination so strongly as a child, the Blue and Yellow Macaw, survived in cages too small for a

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-59576114031943590632011-09-28T12:34:00.000+13:002011-09-28T12:34:00.120+13:00

Cuenca's a lovely city, although the weather hasn't treated me particularly well during my short stay. Still, I'd happily have stayed longer, even if the rain kept me indoors — there's no shortage of comfortable cafes in which to sit and write. But Patagonia's still thousands of kilometres south, and I have to keep moving. I'll remember Cuenca fondly, though. This is the view looking back

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-25580048770039068032011-09-27T06:00:00.000+13:002011-09-27T06:00:01.782+13:00

When I first saw marine iguanas at Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, they struck me as much smaller than I'd expected. However, on arriving at Puerto Villamil on Isabela, I soon realised this perception wasn't right. On a walk at low tide along the rocky coast from the wharf back to town, I came across this massive iguana, notable not only for its size — a good metre long — but its lovely colours.

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-81141918031937235482011-09-26T05:13:00.004+13:002011-09-26T05:14:02.723+13:00

I flew with LAN Ecuador; the AeroGal flight left first, then the TAME flight. Then the announcement: because of an "operation" at Quito airport, our flight had been delayed three hours. Perhaps the Galápagos was as reluctant for me to leave as I was to leave the Galápagos. Still, the airport on Baltra isn't one of the Galápagos' most inspiring places, although even there the little finches

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-27830564642725955452011-09-24T10:00:00.000+12:002011-09-24T10:00:03.710+12:00

Sea lions sure know how to relax. These had parked themselves on the wharf and barely bothered opening an eye when I walked carefully past. By the time you see this, I should be approaching Cuenca, about eight hours by bus south of Quito. The long journey south will have begun. [17 September 2011 (Ecuador), Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 171 mm, ISO 400, 1/160 at f11]  All content ©

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-90912035907294996392011-09-23T05:46:00.000+12:002011-09-23T05:46:00.111+12:00

A good variety of shorebirds frequented the sandy beaches around Puerto Villamil. Ruddy turnstones (Arenaria interpres) were one of the most obvious species, partly because of their distinctive plumage. Photographing them wasn't easy because they moved rapidly and almost continuously, pausing only for an instant. Fortunately, they'd sometimes venture close — but then the problem became

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-79713765892021137462011-09-22T12:35:00.000+12:002011-09-22T12:35:00.585+12:00

A lone American flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber) lived at the Poza Salinas on the outskirts of Puerto Villamil. Sometimes another would join it, and other flamingos patrolled other briny, muddy ponds nearby. Strange, unearthly birds, the colours and shape spectacular. 12 September 2011, Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 300 mm, ISO 400, 1/2000 at f8]   All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-15749236969551703582011-09-21T00:05:00.000+12:002011-09-21T00:06:05.579+12:00

The Tintoreras, named after the white-tipped sharks that lurk here, are a group of small islets just offshore from Puerto Villamil on Isla Isabela. Hardly more than a reef, they provide habitat for abundant wildlife — everything from the sharks and sea turtles to penguins, marine iguanas, sea lions and the famous blue-footed boobies. Like most places in the Galápagos, visits are strictly

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-89082887987545114422011-09-19T01:42:00.000+12:002011-09-19T02:35:48.605+12:00

For most of you, by the time you see this I'll be on my way back to Quito. Right now as I schedule this for posting, I have a full day here on Isla Isabela then catch the ferry (speedboat) back to Santa Cruz early tomorrow morning. I fly out around midday on Monday, back to Quito for a few days. I have a few things I'd like to do in that area, then I start the long move south, a journey that

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-3692897277471646762011-09-16T13:11:00.000+12:002011-09-16T13:11:00.519+12:00

Every day we swam in the Laguna Grande, waited for the sun to set, listened to the calls of birds. Apparently the lagoon is home to stingrays and electric eels, and we had no doubt piraña lived here — we fished for them one evening — and caimans (black and spectacled) lurked along the edges. But where we swam, near the middle of the lagoon, the only real risk was not wanting to get out of the

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-52957240991884273872011-09-15T00:18:00.000+12:002011-09-15T08:21:02.609+12:00

The sea lions here seem unconcerned by humans, using the wharfs and often the moored boats as hauling-out spots — places they can lounge and sleep. At the fish-cleaning station in Puerto Ayora (Santa Cruz) I've even seen them stretching up and nudging the hip of the person skinning a fish, in much the same way Jimmy (the cat from next door) will reach up and rub against me as I'm standing at

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-56389511814818485832011-09-14T13:13:00.000+12:002011-09-14T13:13:00.570+12:00

I never tired of seeing hoatzins during the four days of our stay in Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve.   [31 August 2011 (Ecuador), Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 300 mm, ISO 400, 1/100 at f5.6. Not as sharp as I'd have liked, but it shows the bird well.]   All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-41801135350916620882011-09-12T08:00:00.000+12:002011-09-12T08:00:01.287+12:00

The status of striated herons and lava herons is disputed, with lava herons sometimes considered a separate species and sometimes just a subspecies or colour morph of the striated heron. Lava herons are found only on the Galápagos Islands, but striated herons are widespread in many countries. This bird, on the coast just west of Puerto Villamil (Isabela Is.) is a striated heron; lava herons

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-59674469922903994572011-09-11T12:50:00.000+12:002011-09-11T12:50:00.034+12:00

The courtyard and rear entrance to the refugio on Cotopaxi, at 4810 m. The refugio sleeps 70 people upstairs; downstairs comprises the kitchen and dining area. I imagine it must be a very welcome sight for climbers returning from higher on the mountain in bad weather.   [27 August 2011 (Ecuador), Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 14 mm, ISO 200, 1/640 at f11] All content © 2011 Pete

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-17919350698889072092011-09-10T04:15:00.000+12:002011-09-10T04:15:00.767+12:00

This little male Yellow (or Mangrove) warbler visited me as I ate pancakes for breakfast at El Chocolate and looked out at the fish-cleaning station where pelicans, lava gulls, a blue-footed booby and a sea lion all lurked hoping for morsels. Although remarkably unafraid, some of the birds, particularly the small, energetic types like this one, can be difficult to photograph — always on the

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-24030449323913547602011-09-09T07:26:00.000+12:002011-09-09T07:26:00.585+12:00

Despite the weather and the poor condition of the bikes, I enjoyed the ride down Cotopaxi. Here, Phil and Sean wait while Pedro replaces Mike's bike further up the mountain. Read more about the day at the latest Pohanginapete post.   [27 August 2011 (Ecuador), Panasonic Lumix GH1, 14–45 mm at 16 mm, ISO 200, 1/20 at f22]  All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-13868781173942470682011-09-08T10:48:00.000+12:002011-09-08T10:48:00.051+12:00

I made it to the Galápagos. I'm on Santa Cruz, leaving for Isabela on Thursday. This place is wonderful — I might not leave ;^) It's the only place I've ever had a bird land on the lens of my camera (more about that later). I don't pick favourite animals, but I think I'm in love with these little iguanas. They're much smaller than I'd expected — a really big one might reach 50 cm but most are

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-37152171711205662122011-09-07T01:22:00.000+12:002011-09-07T01:22:00.119+12:00

At the refugio the cloud parted briefly, giving us a glimpse of the 300 m climb from the car park and down to the base of the mountain. Then the cloud closed in again, and the snow began. By the time we'd returned to the car park, snow and sleet had partly obscured the cars, which were still driving up in long lines. At least on a weekend, solitude on Cotopaxi seems not to be an option. See

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-19380228809268839662011-09-05T01:03:00.002+12:002011-09-05T01:06:02.522+12:00

The Saturday before last, a group of us from the hostel travelled to Cotopaxi, climbed to the refugio (hut) at 4800 m (c. 15750 ft), then descended to the lower edge of the cloud and sleet, where we started mountain biking down the access road. The bikes were appalling, but at least this meant the faster among us had time to stop and admire the views while we waited for those whose bikes had

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-13813147095139347122011-09-03T09:19:00.000+12:002011-09-03T09:19:47.926+12:00

Late last night we returned from the jungle after four days (three nights) at Samona Lodge in the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve — a wonderful time and excellent value. I'd tried to keep my expectations low but still hoped to see a few special animals, in particular the strange, prehistoric-looking hoatzin (Opisthocomus hoazin) and a sloth (for RR). The hoatzins were no problem (photographing them

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-12984838983919336942011-08-28T10:00:00.000+12:002011-08-28T10:00:03.411+12:00

Near an open-fronted stall that sold colas and food, birds of several species scampered about, gleaning morsels from the ground. I managed to photograph a couple, and I'm fairly sure this is a Bar-winged Cinclodes (Cinclodes fuscus), typical of the páramo grasslands. [20 August 2011 (Ecuador), Panasonic Lumix GH1, 100–300 mm at 300 mm, ISO 200, 1/320 at f5.6] All content © 2011 Pete McGregor

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-58528859946218296422011-08-26T10:00:00.001+12:002011-08-26T10:00:03.271+12:00

We were the first people (other than staff) to the top of the Teleférico last Saturday, and the early start gave us spectacular views of the Avenue of Volcanoes, with Quito (shown here) sprawling lengthwise along the valley. Later, cloud and haze obscured the volcanoes. This is Cotopaxi, the best known and most visited of Ecuador's volcanoes, although at 5897 m, it's only the second highest peak

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-74209929716865287862011-08-24T01:08:00.000+12:002011-08-24T01:08:50.029+12:00

At the summit, only one other person had already arrived, just a minute or so earlier. Cloud had already begun to close in, and the play of light and shadow on the surrounding mountains and valleys meant this was close to an ideal time to have arrived. Even at just under 4700 m, the temperature wasn't cool enough to be unpleasant — quite the contrary, in fact. [The wide angle and the need to

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-42370129842271489582011-08-22T09:28:00.000+12:002011-08-22T09:28:50.886+12:00

We timed yesterday's walk perfectly, enjoying the views before cloud and haze obscured the volcanoes, before cloud closed in around the summit of Rucu Pichincha. The sign at the top said 4696 metres (about 15,400 feet) — the highest I've been — but the altitude didn't seem to affect me too badly. I did notice I seemed to be puffing more and my legs seemed a little tired — but that might have

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-61983718193769985672011-08-20T10:36:00.000+12:002011-08-20T10:36:39.195+12:00

In the afternoons of the last couple of days, thunderstorms have built up over Quito and the surrounding hills. Yesterday we had a tremendous storm — lightning and thunder every few seconds, and torrential rain that turned to hail and left drifts of hailstones that looked like snow on the footpaths. Today's storm was less violent, but I still wouldn't have wanted to have been caught out in it,

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-34985950100437358642011-08-19T13:22:00.000+12:002011-08-19T13:22:17.486+12:00

The Cascada de Peguche on the outskirts of Otavalo seemed overrun with people, but still retains significance for those whose ancestors have lived here for a great many generations. Without the benefit of that long association with the place, I found the crowds distracting, although I managed a momentary glimpse of what the falls might mean. (I've posted some impressions from the day on

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-23874127577778492552011-08-15T01:17:00.000+12:002011-08-15T01:17:55.106+12:00

Pigs, apparently, are highly intelligent animals. Perhaps it's good they're not quite intelligent enough to see their eventual fate, which seems universal. At least some, probably like this individual, had lives they could enjoy, unlike most of the pigs in so-called "developed" countries. (The meat market immediately behind this scene was truly gruesome.) On Saturday I visited the famous market

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-43718764760007226212011-08-12T10:00:00.009+12:002011-08-12T10:00:02.427+12:00

> The tarabita at Mindo is a simple cage that runs back and forth across a deep ravine in the cloud forest. Power comes from what seems to be a truck engine; most of the time the sole functions of these men would appear to be starting and stopping the engine and switching it from reverse to forward. Still, it's a nice place for an office and they seemed cheerful. [6 August 2011 (Ecuador),

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-72097514454766032982011-08-10T10:25:00.001+12:002011-08-10T10:46:53.213+12:00

The Teleférico (gondola) runs to the top of a hill on the outskirts of Quito. The views, apparently, are staggering, and I'll get up there soon. First, though, I have a couple of hundred irregular verbs to get my head around — not as bad as it sounds, because there's a pattern to most and many seem to share their origins with their English equivalents. But speaking a language effectively can't

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com2Quito Canton, Ecuador-0.1974482372941605 -78.49740362438968-0.31692823729416053 -78.55350262438968 -0.0779682372941605 -78.44130462438967tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-191028737265893759.post-83537074190299700022011-07-30T18:00:00.029+12:002011-07-30T18:00:04.266+12:00

On the main wharf at Akaroa a Little shag (kawaupaka, Microcarbo melanoleucos) peered at the passersby. They always seem conscious of human presence, yet somehow casual; even when someone approaches too close they take their time about extending their wings and stretching into the air. I trust I'll be as relaxed, as at-home-in-myself, when I take to the air next Wednesday, on my way to South

pohanginapetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11463792721091291063noreply@blogger.com3